Charlottesville, VA 22903
While sushi has ascended in status from exotic fad to international staple (I think I saw tuna rolls for sale in my local Safeway last week), it remains somewhat difficult to find restaurants serving more traditional Japanese dishes. Tokyo Rose combines a solid sushi bar with some slightly adventurous takes on Japanese foods. The restaurant is hidden away in a strip mall; while it presents an unimpressive facade, the interior is pleasant, with soft lighting and a natural decor. After some discussion, my companion Mr. K and myself decided on main dishes from the entree menu, to be accompanied by a few orders from the in-house sushi bar. And I was in for a treat- though I didn't see salmon skin sushi on the menu, the waiter informed me that they would be happy to make me rolls (above, middle). I also ordered eel nigiri (above, top), while Mr K selected the Alaska roll (above, bottom), containing salmon, avocado, and cucumber.
While most Japanese restaurants I've been to serve their sushi before the meal, Tokyo Rose brought our order to the table with the entrees- a slight disappointment, if you're expecting to be able to concentrate on your fish. My salmon skin rolls, however, eliminated all disappointment; the wonderfully crunchy texture of the salmon skin was well-supported by a mix of dense rice and crisp cucumber. The eel, too, was all eel should be- mild, flaky, and lightly glazed (though perhaps a little bland)- while the Alaska roll was (I felt) good without being great.
For my entree, I chose the nabeyaki udon, which has been described as a "Japanese hotpot". The base of the dish is udon noodles in a mild stock; chefs then add a variety of meats, seafood, and vegetables. (I, for one, have never had nabeyaki udon without fish cakes and an egg cooked in the broth.) Tokyo Rose's nabeyaki came to the table in the traditional earthenware pot, which keeps the dish hot (and also provides chilly diners with a place to warm their hands as the meal progresses). There were, of course, thinly sliced fish cakes floating in the broth, as well as squash, mushrooms, chicken, an number of plump shrimp, and the requisite egg, which I attacked with abandon. While the broth was more heavily seasoned then I was used to, I found it to be a pleasant counterpoint to the dense udon noodles rather than a nuisance. My only quibble with the dish was the chicken, which was too sweetly seasoned for my palate, and contrasted oddly with the rich, meaty tone of the broth. Soup and stew in much of Western cooking is frequently an opportunity to use cosmetically flawed ingredients. In contrast, Tokyo Rose takes delight in assembling a broth dish that is pleasing to both the eye and the stomach.
Mr K and I finished the meal with some green tea and adjourned to Ben and Jerry's for ice cream. I'm certain we'll dine at Tokyo Rose again; when we do, we'll be sure to try the
dessert menu. And if you find yourself in Charlottesville, I'd recommend uncovering a good meal at this little secret.
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